One of the more unusual things about La V is that its top team is all women, which may explain why the menu is not an exercise in "egotarian cuisine" (a term coined by GQ critic Alan Richman in a harangue against the show-off cooking that’s become so pervasive in male-run kitchens).

So after 42 Grams, maybe that’s cutting edge for Lakeview. It is a tasting menu, and it has some very fine courses with a lot of creative (but not egotarian!) touches, but I wouldn’t put it out as far as Schwa in terms of wild-ass crazy creativity — no chocolate and parsnip desserts.

This style of dining is currently nameless. What makes the food different is that every chef is seeking to express himself in an incomparable and triumphant manner. I call it Egotarian Cuisine.